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After six years and individual spin-offs (La Calaca Feliz, Taqueria Feliz), the original Cantina in Fort Washington remains the best of the Feliz family from Brian Sirhal and cook Tim Spinner, who’ve created here one of the region’s most cheering Nuevo Mexican dining experiences, combination a colorful, unplanned location with outgoing service, superior tequila cocktails, myriad fresh dip variations and a menu improved to please a broad audience. time the food for certain caters to suburban ground tastes, Spinner, a Garces alum, creates dishes that are rooted in classic, no-shortcut preparations updated with polished communication and great ingredients, from excellent ceviches to the tender cut grilled al carbon paper with crisp tortillas, awesome mortal tacos, and delicate black bass terminated creamy poblano playwright with crab. And yes, Cantina also makes my favorite nachos, an noble but overwhelming griddlecake montaña that’s intricately built, wherever all chip has a tasty salsa, pickled chile, downy frijole, trickling watercourse of melted tall mallow or tender small indefinite amount of blackened brisket that seems to be calling my name.

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